Hair

Close shave: The ultimate guide to men’s facial shaving

24 July, 2024 . 0

Want a smooth, irritation-free shave? Professional barbers reveal their top tips for the perfect shave.

The average man shaves about 20,000 times in his life — yet, for something so integral to a daily grooming routine, most men aren’t actually told how to do it properly.

Brush teeth, comb hair, yes, but shaving? Nope.

Perhaps then it is not surprising that — despite store shelves groaning under the weight of shaving products including razors with every conceivable blade combination promising a close shave — there are so many men with shaving rash and ingrown hairs walking our streets.

Turns out, shaving while maintaining smooth, supple skin takes more than a splash of water, a hand mirror and a blade.

Here are professional’s tips on how to achieve the perfect shave.

1. Prep the skin

The pros will tell you the key to a great shave is all in the preparation.

“I recommend exfoliating using a quality facial scrub the night before,” The Barberhood master barber Jennifer Oliver says.

“The scrub will not only lift stubble in preparation for shaving, but also rejuvenate dry and dull skin.

“It’s best to do this the night before as doing it just before shaving can cause irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin.”

2. Choose your moment

Steam opens pores and causes hair to swell and soften, making it easier to shave, so shaving after or during a shower is ideal.

Tate & Lyle Sydney head barber and founder Jacob Martin advises to actually shave in the shower or bath after you’ve let the steam and water soften the hair strands.

3. Pick your products

Pre-shave oil or cream helps prevent razor burn and is especially good for those with heavy beards or prone to razor bumps and ingrown hairs.

“A good routine after a shower is to immediately apply pre-shave oil or cream,” Jennifer says.

“Then work up the skin with a shaving brush as this action frees any trapped hairs and it also encourages the hair to stand upright, which makes for a closer shave.”

Now it’s time to apply shaving cream, such as foam or gel.

They can be drying, so less is more.

“Avoid products containing alcohol and look for ones containing natural oils, which offer extra nourishment,” Jacob suggests.

“Ensure you use a clean blade — we love the single-edge safety razor for home use, but they’re sharp, so be careful with them!”

4. Follow your hair growth

Using a clean razor, begin shaving with the grain of hair growth (usually downwards).

Use short strokes, rinsing the blade often. Shave the easy areas first (the cheeks) while leaving the neck, chin and upper lip for last.

This will allow these areas more time to soften up via the products you’ve used.

Hold, but don’t stretch, your skin and use minimum pressure.

Run the razor under hot water between strokes to clean it, as one leading cause of razor burn is a blade clogged with soap and hair.

“A simple tip to map your face is to close your eyes and with your preferred choice of product, trace your facial hair to understand growth patterns and check for any skin tags, moles or scars that could be caught,” Jacob advises.

Razor burn occurs after shaving off protruding hair follicles and irregular skin surfaces and can lead to ingrown hairs, rashes and even infections.

“If you don’t have sensitive skin, it’s best to shave diagonally across the grain on the second pass, as it ensures a closer shave,” Jennifer says.

5. Don’t skip the after care

Post-shaving, cleanse your face and rinse thoroughly with cold water to help close the pores.

“After shaving, don’t use any abrasive products that will irritate the skin,” Jacob says.

“Moisturise with an oil-free moisturiser and stay clear of any aftershave containing alcohol, which will, in addition to hurting like hell, dry your skin out.”

6. Call in the pros

Until recently, disposable razors and unisex salons sealed the fate of the traditional straight razor shave.

But now, more and more men are returning to the barbershop.

The new generation of barbers offer a mix of traditional and modern services, so if you want to pair your shave with a facial or a style and colour — all while sipping on a beer or whiskey — then you can do so without any shame.

Plus, a visit to a barber can be a firsthand tutorial in shaving techniques.

“Your barber can advise you on the best practice for shaving — based on, for example, which way your hair grows and the products that are best suited to your skin type,” Jennifer says.

“After all, what’s right for one person may not be right for you.”

More on men’s grooming and skincare:

Written by Paul Ewart.