The ins and outs of facial rolling

Face rollers are everywhere you look on social media, but are they worth the added step in your skincare routine?

There’s hype – and then there’s facial roller hype.

Rosalia, Kendall Jenner, Kaia Gerber, Olivia Rodrigo, Ashley Graham and Addison Rae are just some of the big-name fans who have made this skincare trend a seemingly overnight sensation.

Here’s what to know before you jump on the bandwagon.

Do face rollers work?

Studies have found facial massaging may improve blood circulation and fight signs of ageing with regular, consistent use.

But skin experts are divided.

Little Company researcher Tash Havos says facial rollers are an essential tool in her skin therapy boutique’s treatments.

“We find that massaging the face with these tools helps increase oxygen flow due to the encouragement of blood circulation, which allows for easier delivery of nutrients into the skin,” Tash says.

“One major benefit is they provide a lymphatic drainage massage, encouraging any stagnant lymph to flow, directly assisting with any puffiness in the face.

“Stimulating blood circulation can help with myriad issues like skin dullness, calming inflammation and the release of built-up lymphatic waste.”

But Brisbane dermatologist Davin Lim is more sceptical.

“One thing that isn’t disputed when it comes to these tools is that they’re harmless, so if they soothe your skin or make you feel good, then by all means knock yourself out,” he says.

“However, if you’re after significant skin changes or goals, whether that be a reduction in acne or age prevention, then realistically the tool is not going to help with that.”

Dr Lim recommends addressing lifestyle factors before introducing a facial rolling tool.

“Start off with your basics like having quick, cool showers, avoiding a diet high in salt and sodium, getting enough sleep, not drinking too much alcohol,” he says.

“If those factors have been ruled out and you’re still experiencing puffiness, you can reduce inflammation by incorporating ingredients that are scientifically proven for targeting that, such as niacinamide, which is vitamin B and azelaic acid, which you can buy over the counter.”

facial roller

Different types of facial rollers

While most facial rollers serve the same purpose, but there are variations in stone purity and colour.

Rose quartz face roller

Rose quartz facial rollers tend to be popular choice because of their purported healing properties.

Compared with jade, rose quartz is a more durable stone that stays cooler for longer, which is said to be beneficial for lymphatic drainage.

“Stone density means it’s adaptive and can stay cooler for longer as its molecular structure disperses heat easier than other stones,” she says.

Jade face roller

Jade stones are considered mood alleviating, supposedly helping to eliminate negativity.

The stone also has particular significance in Chinese medicine.

Due to a decline in the production of genuine jade, some manufacturers have resorted to dyeing and chemically treating other cheaper stones.

Look for a reputable brand that is known to use genuine jade and steer clear of cheap options.

Cryo face roller

One of the more luxurious options, a cryo roller uses the concept of cryotherapy (subjecting your body to low temperatures) in the form of steel rollers.

Stone rollers can stay cool for an extended period but cryo rollers dial it up a notch because they are stored in the freezer between use, making them ice cold to the touch.

The extra coolness may particularly benefit puffy, inflamed skin.

Gua sha

Much like traditional facial rollers, gua shas tend to be made from stone such as jade and rose quartz.

But instead of being rolled across the face, the tool requires more of a scraping technique.

Gua sha tools also have a unique triangular shape designed to help softly scrape the surface of your face.

“Some of these stones, such as jade, have been used in traditional Chinese medicine for generations. In these more traditional practices, the gua sha tool is favoured as the shape lends itself to a deeper pressure,” Tash says.

Facial rolling technique

  • Ensure your skin is prepped correctly: “If misused, the friction on the skin can actually cause an adverse effect, stretching or pulling of the skin. Using an oil is essential; something nutrient-rich that will create slip on the skin so that you don’t tug on it,” Tash says.
  • Glide the roller with slight pressure upwards and outwards from the centre of your face. Avoid rolling up and down.
  • Roll under the jawline, then towards the hairline, under the cheekbones along the brows and up the forehead, avoiding the eye area.

Written by Charlotte Brundrett.

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